Hiking
Hiking the Fishermen's Trail along Portugal's wild Atlantic coast
Contributed by Gábor Palla
Porto Covo to Odeceixe, Portugal
A four-day, 75-kilometre trek along the Fishermen's Trail from Porto Covo to Odeceixe, following cliff edges, deep sand dunes, and wild Atlantic beaches.
- Distance
- 75
- Days
- 4
Chills and goosebumps at 30°C? Yes. The moment you stepped out of the scorching sun onto the open coastline and finally felt the wind reach you. We hiked along the wild Atlantic coast, crossing sand dunes, walking beside dramatic cliffs and through overgrown bushes, covering around 75 km in four days along the Fishermen’s Trail from Porto Covo to Odeceixe. We stayed in small fishing villages and had an amazing group of people with us.
The nature was simply unparalleled and incredibly diverse. In the heat, the elevation changes added to some of the longest stretches of silence I have ever experienced. All you could hear was the sound of the waves and the rhythm of your hiking poles. Our group really became interactive mainly on the easier sections.
We were amazed by the osprey nests, the cliffs dropping away right next to the trail, and the endless coastline. It was easy to become one with the place. There were no railings protecting you from a fall, and no benches placed everywhere to make the landscape more comfortable or accessible. There was just nature.
In temperatures of 25 to 30°C, we planned our short breaks around the few square metres of shade we could find along the occasional tree-covered or more vegetated sections.
We also had to carry everything we needed for the entire hike, as well as enough food and water. There were several five- to six-hour stretches where there was simply nowhere to buy anything.
We arrived every day dirty and happy. Our post-hike routine was simple: wash ourselves and our clothes, making sure everything was ready for the following day, then head out to explore the Portuguese villages and discover the incredible local food. Accommodation and restaurant prices were surprisingly favorable.
The Portuguese really know how to take their time and enjoy life, and we got a little taste of it too. We loved the fact that we would only meet around 30 to 50 people throughout the entire day. For now, mass tourism has not yet destroyed the unique magic of this trail.
Highlights
- Osprey nests built on the sea cliffs.
- The Almograve to Zambujeira do Mar stretch, which was the most beautiful section of the hike.
- Unspoilt coastal scenery without railings, benches, or erosion-prevention barriers.
- Bar da Praia do Almograve for post-hike drinks.
Must-Know
- Download the Fisherman's Trail mobile app (with the fish logo) to view your live location, trail navigation, and nearby services.
- Don't expect a Camino-style social atmosphere; hikers rarely connect or chat along the path.
- Pack out all your trash, including toilet paper, which is an eyesore in several spots.
Camping
- When booking village rooms or guesthouses, pick places with a terrace or garden so you can wash and dry your clothes each evening.
Food
- Village grocery stores do not always open early, so buy food and trail snacks the evening before.
- Plan ahead for five- to six-hour stretches with nowhere to purchase food or water.
- Village dinners and local restaurants are affordable and worth lingering over.
H2O
- Carry between 2 and 3 litres of water each day.
- Use an insulated bladder or pouch inside your pack to keep drinking water cool in the midday heat.
- Fill up completely in the villages, as there are no resupply spots along the trail for hours at a time.
Trail Notes
- The route from Porto Covo to Odeceixe runs roughly 75 km across coastal dunes, cliff edges, and bush paths.
- Zambujeira to Odeceixe is the most difficult leg of the route.
- Deep sand dunes make walking significantly more exhausting than ordinary trails.
- Overgrown scrub is common along several sections; watch out for low and protruding branches.
- Train before you go. The combination of heat, frequent elevation changes, and loose sand can feel brutal.
Gear
- Hiking poles are an absolute must for balance and support on sand dunes and steep steps.
- Mid-height supportive hiking boots help protect ankles on rocky, steep, and stair-like terrain.
- A hooded UV-protection top provides essential sun relief when shade is non-existent.
- Pack Compeed blister plasters before leaving home.
- Bring lightweight shoes or flip-flops to slip into at the end of each day.
- Keep pack weight strictly under 8 to 9 kg, factoring in 2 to 3 litres of water.
Weather Window
- Even in September, daytime temperatures hit 25 to 30°C with relentless sunshine.
- Start hiking as early in the morning as possible to cover distance before peak heat.
- True shade is extremely rare along the coast; plan rest stops around occasional vegetated scrub.
Access
- Consider booking airport or luggage transfers through local services such as Hikeeasy.