Hiking
Patagonia: The O-Loop Circuit
Contributed by Rowan James
Torres del Paine, Chile
An epic trek spanning wind-scoured forests, suspension bridges, and dramatic glacial valleys, leading straight to the spectacular granite towers of Las Torres.
- Distance
- 120
- Ascent
- 5423
Our first hike in Patagonia: Torres del Paine National Park! We flew into Punta Arenas and took a bus north to Puerto Natales, where we camped for the night. We spent the next day getting supplies for the O-Loop hike, stocking up on a ridiculous amount of chocolate biscuits for some reason… The following morning, we boarded a bus that dropped us off inside the park to begin our trek.
Day 1: Central to Serón (15 km) Day 1 is an easy hiking day with minimal elevation gain and beautiful views of the river valley below the trail. Picture a dirt single-track looking out over a green plain, a glacial blue river winding down the valley, and snow-capped peaks surrounding you in every direction. We took it easy, stopping for a few breaks to snack and soak up the sun’s rays. Upon arriving at Camp Serón, we set up our tent and chatted with fellow hikers from all over the world.
Day 2: Serón to Vértice Los Perros (31 km) Day 2 was a long haul because we didn't have a campsite reservation at Camp Dickson, meaning we had to push past it to the next site. We had originally planned to discreetly pitch our tent there anyway, but unfortunately, the rangers were onto us, so no such luck! The hike was nevertheless beautiful, taking us through ancient tree forests and past incredible lakes filled with the most vibrant turquoise water. By the time we reached Los Perros, we were exhausted and ready to make dinner and chill. The great thing about this trek is that it’s as social as you want it to be, yet the trail itself feels peaceful and uncrowded. Los Perros campsite is nestled deep in the trees and has a wonderfully serene atmosphere.
Day 3: Los Perros to Grey (15 km) Day 3 was an absolute highlight. Leaving campsite, you climb up the valley to an incredible reward at the top: a sweeping view across the vast sheet of ice known as Glacier Grey. The wind picked up significantly and it was freezing standing up there, but I was so awestruck by this frozen landscape that I couldn't believe what I was seeing. Walking further along the route, you reach a vantage point near the edge of the glacier where you can hear giant chunks of ice calving off and crashing into the water. Watching the ice fall and hearing the thunderous echo felt straight out of a David Attenborough documentary. Grey campsite was located near the river and featured a small shop where we stocked up on very overpriced biscuits.
Day 4: Grey to Camp Francés (20 km) Grey to Francés is another scenic leg (well, all of them are, really) featuring expansive views of deep blue lakes and stunning mountain terrain. We stopped to check out the Paine Grande campsite and ate lunch there before pushing on. As you approach this section, the trail gets noticeably busier as it merges with the famous W-Trek, which covers major highlights like Glacier Grey and Las Torres without requiring the full 120 km circuit. At the campsite, we decided we deserved a little luxury and went to see if any of the prefabricated tents were unoccupied. We managed to find one and snuck in for a great night's sleep on a firm mattress. The key is to pretend you're looking for your friend's tent: if no one answers when you call out, you open it up to check!
Day 5: Camp Francés to Camping Central (16 km) Day 5 takes you along a contour path near the edge of the lake for a relaxed and genuinely enjoyable hike. We arrived back at Camping Central (our starting point) and settled in for the night. We had dinner with a Russian hiker and a few others who shared some wild travel stories. The Russian traveler had been on the road for over seven years and had completed some insane expeditions, including cycling across the Bolivian Salt Flats- where we had actually been just a week or two before this trek! Using our sneaky tent trick once more, we secured another refugio tent for the night to prepare for an early wake-up call.
Day 6: Central to Las Torres Base & Back (21 km) We hit the jackpot today. One of the crown jewels of Torres del Paine is the sheer granite towers, Las Torres, which are a absolute dream for photography. We set off at 4:25 AM to climb up to the base of the towers. Quite a few people had the same idea, but luckily Matt and I were able to overtake them fairly easily to avoid getting stuck in a queue. We reached the top just in time for sunrise, joining the crowd of hikers and photographers setting up for the shot of a lifetime. The view was spectacular and the weather couldn't have been better. We waited for the sun to hit the towers, trying our best to stay warm, snapped a few shots, and then headed back down to grab some food and catch our bus back to Puerto Natales.
Camping
- You need to book campsites up to a year in advance (range of options including refugios at a high price)
Resupply
- Most camp sites stock basic items but very expensive
Permits
- Permit available online and at the door